If you’ve done any shopping or research on leather, you’ve probably come across a plethora of terms like “full grain,” “top grain,” or “genuine,” used to describe quality. This mix of industry terminology has created confusion among consumers about which type of leather is truly superior in quality.
Are these terms actually indicative of the quality of leather you buy? And what do they really mean?
In this post, we’ll clear up some of the confusion around leather grades and help you make a more informed decision on your next leather purchase.
Full-grain refers to leather that retains the entire grain and uppermost layers of the hide. Because the fibers remain tightly packed, it is more durable than other types of leather. Only the hair is removed from the hide during processing, leaving natural markings and blemishes visible on the leather surface.
Full-grain leather is widely considered the superior quality leather grade. It exhibits remarkable strength and durability, making it a great choice for high-quality shoes and handbags. However, it is also more difficult to work with, which increases production costs, one reason why many manufacturers prefer to use lower-quality and less complete leather grades.
Top-grain leather is similar to full-grain leather in that it retains the grain layer of the hide. The key difference is that it does not include the uppermost layer of the grain. This layer is sanded down to remove imperfections on the surface of the hide.
Top grain is also considered to be a high-quality grade. The sanding process creates a more uniform appearance and makes the hide more workable and easier to dye.
Split-grain leather, commonly referred to as suede, is made from lower layers of the hide after it is split from the top grain. It has a looser fiber structure and is highly flexible compared to top- or full-grain leather.
This flexibility allows for more versatility in dyeing and embossing. However, it is generally less durable and more susceptible to damage than higher-grade leather.
"Genuine leather” does not refer to a specific part of the hide; it is a catch-all term for materials that contain some portion of animal-derived leather. Both full-grain and top-grain leathers can fall under the genuine leather category.
However, the term is often used in marketing to describe lower-quality leather. Manufacturers may use cheaper cuts that are heavily processed to reduce costs while still labelling them as “genuine leather.”
Oftentimes, the lower layers of the hide are split from the grain, sanded down, and coated with polyurethane or other synthetic coatings. The result is a leather-synthetic hybrid that is generally less durable and more prone to peeling and cracking than full- or top- grain leather.
Though this is not an exhaustive list, here are a few more types of leather you may come across:
Bonded leather is made from scrap leather mixed with adhesives to create a single material. The quality of bonded leather is largely dependent on the quality of the underlying inputs. It is typically used in furniture and upholstery.
“Vegan leather” is a marketing term for plastic-based materials designed to mimic the look and feel of real leather. For a deeper look at common misconceptions, see our post, There is No Alternative to Real Leather: The Sustainability Myth of Vegan Leather.
Patent leather is coated in layers of synthetic lacquer to give it an ultra-glossy finish. The result is leather with a mirror-like shine that is highly water-resistant. Patent leather is most often found in shoes and handbags.
If you’re looking for the highest-quality leather, full grain is the way to go. It retains the most complete structure of the hide and is the most durable of all leather grades. With proper care and storage, full-grain leather can last for decades.
It’s also important to note that the tanning process plays a significant role in a leather’s quality and characteristics. To learn more, explore our guide to the most common tanning methods used in the industry.
At BED|STÜ, we only use full-grain, 100% vegetable-tanned leather in our products. This allows us to preserve the natural beauty and richness of the leather, embracing every mark and blemish as a reflection of the natural world.
As the most durable leather grade, full-grain leather is the ideal choice for crafting shoes and bags designed to last for generations.
To learn more about our materials and process, explore our Materials page.
